Societal, visual and commercial.
Its these anthropological head on crashes that can make life entertaining for some and entirely bewildering and frustrating for others. Sometimes we can see both sides, other times we rage against the black or the white depending on our stance of the day, week, month.
Let me explain.
A long flight in the cocoon of the modern airline wormholes brings me to ........... South America. Finally..... light, fragrance and well..... generally cha cha cha. Just what I expected. Except.
Picked up, shipped downtown, sound, colour, light, aroma, yes real aroma of wonderful food, spice and the sea. Oh yes and noise..... the ever present dance of Machismo and La Chica moves by me in a blaze of fashion and twirl.
Days pass and I awaken from that slumber called jet-lag. I am surrounded by some of the most eloquent trappings of civilisation. Lima, capital city of Peru. Buildings designed by artists stand on every street. Some are so interesting and curious as to cause 30 minute pauses in my wanderings while i just try and take in all the subtleties that the artist envisioned. The shapes, the colours, the flourishes none are block built all are unique. What an architectural jewel by the sea. Except.
I cant speak Spanish unfortunately. Most Limenas cant speak English. Especially taxi drivers and shop keepers. Its through this common ignorance that we learn just how friendly and substantial people can be. I have had some very interesting conversations (I cant think what else to call them) with total strangers in very odd places from street wanderings to plain old taxi rides all in odd language combinations and hand movements with lots of nodding and smiling. Never, ever did I feel awkward or threatened, in fact I must say that the hospitality of the average Limena is just so comfortable. You are assumed to be part of their family until YOU prove otherwise. My kinda people. Except.
The Costa Verde, the Bay of Lima, pinioned on a christian cross and a shopping mall built into a cliff (two religions side by side competing or an alliance?). By day the shopping mall beckons with the allure of slick advertising and coffee smells, by night the beacon of the lit cross shines on you to ensure that you dont sin. Meanwhile, Limenas dance, and dance, and dance. Except.
What should be a wonderful place, a city of light and deep culture, a gateway to a magical place has a major issue.
Fear.
Small word, big impact on everyday life.
Security guards are everywhere. Taxis lock their doors when you get in to keep you safe. Beautiful buildings are constrained with barbed wire and 9 foot high fences, most of which are electrified. The longer I stayed, the more infectious this virus became.
My 30 minute stops of architectural wonder became muted by the possibility of electric crucifixion, Conversations became terse as I held closely to my bag to keep would be snatchers away. Simple taxi rides became stressful in coping with the machismo persistence of the drivers and the near miss traffic always guarded should they turn down a dark street. Ahhhh....... I should have left after the first month, before the wonder inoculation wore off.
The Inca's used to not have locks on their doors. They had no concept of theft. They used gold for the creation of art due to its enduring nature as opposed to its value as a precious metal. They also placed high value on people instead of things. Their families were huge, many times many extended. And surprisingly peaceful. They actually knew each other. A very interesting culture to explore in both its traditions and amazingly artistic architecture. And today its called Peru. The food still exists, the music is so varied you cant help but dance, the art of life still observable and the people so warm and emotionally expressive. Incas still live here.
So where did the fear come from?
Days pass and I awaken from that slumber called jet-lag. I am surrounded by some of the most eloquent trappings of civilisation. Lima, capital city of Peru. Buildings designed by artists stand on every street. Some are so interesting and curious as to cause 30 minute pauses in my wanderings while i just try and take in all the subtleties that the artist envisioned. The shapes, the colours, the flourishes none are block built all are unique. What an architectural jewel by the sea. Except.
I cant speak Spanish unfortunately. Most Limenas cant speak English. Especially taxi drivers and shop keepers. Its through this common ignorance that we learn just how friendly and substantial people can be. I have had some very interesting conversations (I cant think what else to call them) with total strangers in very odd places from street wanderings to plain old taxi rides all in odd language combinations and hand movements with lots of nodding and smiling. Never, ever did I feel awkward or threatened, in fact I must say that the hospitality of the average Limena is just so comfortable. You are assumed to be part of their family until YOU prove otherwise. My kinda people. Except.
The Costa Verde, the Bay of Lima, pinioned on a christian cross and a shopping mall built into a cliff (two religions side by side competing or an alliance?). By day the shopping mall beckons with the allure of slick advertising and coffee smells, by night the beacon of the lit cross shines on you to ensure that you dont sin. Meanwhile, Limenas dance, and dance, and dance. Except.
What should be a wonderful place, a city of light and deep culture, a gateway to a magical place has a major issue.
Fear.
Small word, big impact on everyday life.
Security guards are everywhere. Taxis lock their doors when you get in to keep you safe. Beautiful buildings are constrained with barbed wire and 9 foot high fences, most of which are electrified. The longer I stayed, the more infectious this virus became.
My 30 minute stops of architectural wonder became muted by the possibility of electric crucifixion, Conversations became terse as I held closely to my bag to keep would be snatchers away. Simple taxi rides became stressful in coping with the machismo persistence of the drivers and the near miss traffic always guarded should they turn down a dark street. Ahhhh....... I should have left after the first month, before the wonder inoculation wore off.
The Inca's used to not have locks on their doors. They had no concept of theft. They used gold for the creation of art due to its enduring nature as opposed to its value as a precious metal. They also placed high value on people instead of things. Their families were huge, many times many extended. And surprisingly peaceful. They actually knew each other. A very interesting culture to explore in both its traditions and amazingly artistic architecture. And today its called Peru. The food still exists, the music is so varied you cant help but dance, the art of life still observable and the people so warm and emotionally expressive. Incas still live here.
So where did the fear come from?
Some could say Spain brought it, others that its part of 21st century life. More people would say its the recent (20 years ago now) terrorists of the Shining Path (most of whom now run large mining corporations and drive Mercedes Benz automobiles).
Personally, I am unconvinced by all of these explainations. I base this on my warm experience of the people i met and shared with and their irrational belief in this urban myth of danger which is very pervasive in their day to day life. Its confirmed by church missives and the other church missives of advertising and TV Media. For what? I did wander the streets, with a $2500 dollar camera in my hand wearing a Rolex watch. Dark streets too, late at night. All the wrong places. My Limena friends were horrified, constantly warning me of the danger to life and limb.
I retook the wonder pills, the ones that help you realise that 99.99999999% of everyone you meet is just a normal person going about their normal business with no intent of harm whatsoever.
Personally, I am unconvinced by all of these explainations. I base this on my warm experience of the people i met and shared with and their irrational belief in this urban myth of danger which is very pervasive in their day to day life. Its confirmed by church missives and the other church missives of advertising and TV Media. For what? I did wander the streets, with a $2500 dollar camera in my hand wearing a Rolex watch. Dark streets too, late at night. All the wrong places. My Limena friends were horrified, constantly warning me of the danger to life and limb.
I retook the wonder pills, the ones that help you realise that 99.99999999% of everyone you meet is just a normal person going about their normal business with no intent of harm whatsoever.
I evaded all of the assassins. Was this luck? I had some wonderful conversations again. And my camera got mucho work.
Limenas I am still your fan.
Meanwhile, that Cross shines down on the bay every night pointing at the non righteous.
Oh, one last thing plagues me. In a land of such machismo (sure its a legacy of Spanish invasion), why are all the Traffic Police women?
Limenas I am still your fan.
Meanwhile, that Cross shines down on the bay every night pointing at the non righteous.
Oh, one last thing plagues me. In a land of such machismo (sure its a legacy of Spanish invasion), why are all the Traffic Police women?
The entire Lima and Andes photo set is here http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikonokuro/sets/72157605581850831/
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